mfryer Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Materials arrive tomorrow for my center section spar. I have been combing through the CPs again and I think I have found all the updates. If anyone has any words of wisdom to share before I dive in, please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Kriley Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Remember to use the right epoxy for the forward face of the spar, as it becomes the rear wall of your fuel tanks. Have fun! This was a very satisfying part for me. Quote Phil Kriley Cozy #1460 Chapter 13 - nose Right wing done - working on right winglet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waiter Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 If you've even had a passing thought of ever installing Infinity retracts, now is a good time to add the additional layups in the outer portion of the CS. Waiter Quote F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract visit: www.iflyez.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I documented my process on my website: http://www.n200lz.com/Chapters/BuildersNotes.aspx?Chapter=14 I vacuum bagged mine. If you are going to use the plans method, I would suggest adding MDF for the side that becomes the bottom vs. the 'sticks' method. It is a flat plane until you get to the center piece which (IIRC) on a Long-EZ was 18 inches. So three pieces..... an 18 inch mid section an two outer. As Waiter said, the additional layups for the Infinity gear should be done at this time and is documented in my processes. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I documented my process on my website: http://www.n200lz.com/Chapters/BuildersNotes.aspx?Chapter=14 I vacuum bagged mine. If you are going to use the plans method, I would suggest adding MDF for the side that becomes the bottom vs. the 'sticks' method. It is a flat plane until you get to the center piece which (IIRC) on a Long-EZ was 18 inches. So three pieces..... an 18 inch mid section an two outer. As Waiter said, the additional layups for the Infinity gear should be done at this time and is documented in my processes. i did the layups for the gear and will be paying for it with 1/4" of micro on my strakes:mad: o well, to late to try and un-do it nowon the inside big layup (uni times 3 i think) lay out one layer full size, wet then the next layer est. over 4-7 mill plastic, then place foil over the hole mess and cut one inch bigger then the inside span of the main spar. get help or cut in the center, and lay it in the 14' hole (remove the plastic prier to install). after you press and scwiggee it it you can remove the foil or let it stay. some mite say to put peel over the glass then the foil to sponge up the extra epoxy, but i just pull the foil and use my bondo knife and fuss with it till dark..lol start 6 hours befor you think you will start(i did not do it the way i type, but wish i new then what i know now). i was in tears trying to get my uni to shape after pulling it out of shape, the foil should stop that Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 start 6 hours befor you think you will start(i did not do it the way i type, but wish i new then what i know now). i was in tears trying to get my uni to shape after pulling it out of shape, the foil should stop thatI used masking tape to mark the places where I was cutting the UNI (a little wider than what I needed) and cut down the middle of the tape and left it on. The tape made the UNI much more managable while I was working on it. When I did my scissors trim at the end, it was removed with the trim. Worked for me..... but again, it was a second attempt and I ended up 9 lbs lighter in the end. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I used masking tape to mark the places where I was cutting the UNI (a little wider than what I needed) and cut down the middle of the tape and left it on. The tape made the UNI much more managable while I was working on it. When I did my scissors trim at the end, it was removed with the trim. Worked for me..... but again, it was a second attempt and I ended up 9 lbs lighter in the end. i did you do the inside lay-up one at a time ? and if you did, how did you get the strands straight on the second and 3rd layer? mine stuck like glue Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Steve .... not sure I understand the question but I'll take a shot at it. My layups were left long. If you look at the pictures you can see where I added a trim strip to the top of the form/jig. I extended the layup up and over that to help keep everything in place until it was in the vacuum bag. Of course once the vacuum was applied, it all stayed in place. Once I got to the point of adding the forward face, I pulled the trim strips and (using a Fien) cut everything flush to the edge of the original jig/mold. Is that the question you had? Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 Steve .... not sure I understand the question but I'll take a shot at it. My layups were left long. If you look at the pictures you can see where I added a trim strip to the top of the form/jig. I extended the layup up and over that to help keep everything in place until it was in the vacuum bag. Of course once the vacuum was applied, it all stayed in place. Once I got to the point of adding the forward face, I pulled the trim strips and (using a Fien) cut everything flush to the edge of the original jig/mold. Is that the question you had? we have the same spar ? i remember haveing 3 sides done and it calling for a large 3 layer thick uni layup going inside of the spar... Quote Steve M. Parkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Steve, my Long-Ez spar process is in the link above. I don't want to hijack PTM's thread. If you have a question, email or PM the plans page & layup number in question and I'll respond. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfryer Posted December 5, 2009 Author Share Posted December 5, 2009 Thanks for all of the input. I will not be inalling retracts and I plan to build my my spar as per the plans. I am using EZ-Poxy throughout my build, so I assume that there will be no inconpqtibiliy issuse with avgas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMann Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 PTM ... sounds like you have it handled. Keep us posted on your progress. Quote T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18 Velocity/RG N951TM Mann's Airplane Factory We add rocket's to everything! 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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