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Tiny Bubbles, Big Blisters...


epicez

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I've really been pleased overall using PPG K-36 primer/surfacer, and PPG Concept paints - even if it has cost a small fortune to use these. The final finish is really outstanding. However, I have noticed "micro pores" or, very small bubbles in the final finish that really makes a nightmare out of putting on accent colors. I have managed to spot shoot the pinholes out of the accent for the most part (trust me, there are NO pinholes from the glass/final surface). I have recently had to rebalance my elevators and ailerons, and decided to not use primer. I shot the paint in hopes that everything would work out ok. What happened? Huge blisters varying in size from dish bubbles, to toad warts. Really interesting since I haven't had this problem the whole time.... I had some smaller dish bubbles show up on my lower cowl, which I also recently painted, passing quality control, but has numerous tiny porous bubbles that I know will be an accent paint nightmare. I'm going to have to refinish the blistered ailerons and elevators, and I'll try to post some photos so ya'all know what I'm talking about... Please help.

 

I failed at posting photos too, so, if anyone has some suggestions to help me with that too, that would also be helpful. Thanks!

Ben Winner :cool:

Grand Forks, ND

503.580.3573

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Seat of the pants, sounds like solvent pops. Too short of 'flash' time, forced drying (surface dries first trapping solvents below), excessive application per coat (piling it on), reducer incompatibility...

 

Attachments: Click the "Manage Attachments" button in the "Additional Options" pane, browse to the file on your local confuzer, hi lite it, then click upload. When it's done, click 'close window'.

 

There is a file size limit on this server, 500k for jpg files. If too large, I'm not sure if the server will raise an error back to you. On my forum, size limit is my typical tech support email.

 

Rick

Rick Hall; MK-IV plans #1477; cozy.zggtr.org

Build status: 1-7, bits of 8-9, 10, 14 done! Working on engine/prop/avionics.
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Thanks, I've been trying to go thinner and thinner with the coats, it is possible that the coats were too heavy, which could lead to your soda bubble theory. One thing I've found is that if the coats are too light, you end up with a significant orange peel (maybe worse) texture that requires a lot of wet sanding. I wait the req'd 10 minutes between coats, and fog coat the surface first, also waiting 10 minutes after... Painting, and painting well is truly a very finite art. I can't even put into words the appreciation I have for nice paint finishes after going through all of this. I spent all afternoon sanding down the surfaces, and going to get some more red-oxide paint tomorrow to fill the remaining holes...

Ben Winner :cool:

Grand Forks, ND

503.580.3573

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What Steve sez, especially a repaint of something that was waxed previously ;) I would look at my shop rags though, the ones used for final wipe-down. If they were used to previously wax the family sedan... Silicone is fairly hard to remove.

 

Few things to think about/check: Good air filter on the air line? Has the air hose always passed clean air from a filter? Did someone lube the locks/hinges in the shop with *aerosol* silicone recently? Contaminate in your final wash/rinse water? Would oil from your fingers be a cause?

 

Did the pin holes appear almost immediately after squirting the paint, or was it after an hour/two? Fish-eye is almost immediate.

 

Rick

Rick Hall; MK-IV plans #1477; cozy.zggtr.org

Build status: 1-7, bits of 8-9, 10, 14 done! Working on engine/prop/avionics.
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Thanks again :D

 

Surface contamination, yes. I'm sure now... I just got done with attempting to hand micro-brush paint back into the hundreds of holes... many of them still not accepting paint - puking it back up still... Probably have to re-do again. 3rd times the charm? (shaking head, you'd think I'd know by now...)

Ben Winner :cool:

Grand Forks, ND

503.580.3573

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Cleanliness is always next to Gawd awfulness?

 

Not knowing what the contaminate is, I like to 'wash' with solvent-prep (clean mineral spirits often works in a pinch), wipe off with a new/clean rag before it dries. Repeat if you're flush with cash and solvent. Then a wash of detergent/water (Dawn is a favorite), then two (or more) rinses with clean water.

 

Needless to say, do not use acetone, or any aromatic ketone.

 

Looking at how the last rinse 'sheets' on the surface may give an indication of any remaining crud. Pinholes with crud still in them may upset the sheeting action.

Rick Hall; MK-IV plans #1477; cozy.zggtr.org

Build status: 1-7, bits of 8-9, 10, 14 done! Working on engine/prop/avionics.
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