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5.9" vs. 6.25"


ErlendM

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In the Cozy-FAQ it says in ch 5: Change the 5.9" dimension to 6.25". I understand why, but I can't figure out what part in ch 5 I should change. I find this in ch 6, but I can't see any place that 5.9" is mentioned in ch 5.

Could anyone please enlighten me here?

Erlend Moen
Norway
Cozy MK IV #1556 - Chapter 16
http://cozy.ljosnes.no

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In the Cozy-FAQ it says in ch 5: Change the 5.9" dimension to 6.25". I understand why, but I can't figure out what part in ch 5 I should change. I find this in ch 6, but I can't see any place that 5.9" is mentioned in ch 5.

Could anyone please enlighten me here?

It's somewhere at the beginning of chapter 5 when your building the longerons and attaching the front doublers, I don't have my plans or I would point you to it.

 

If you epoxy them too far forward, they may end up shorter than you want for the canard attach point, too far back and you'll need to add to them. Chapter 6 deals with attaching F28 at the 6.25" dimension.

Regards,

Jason T Heath

MarkIV #1418

heathjasont@yahoo.com

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Erland,

 

I looked at the photos on your website and you'll need to move the doublers back or you'll end up cutting them off completely in chapter 6 when you remove the area for the canard.

I discovered this myself right before I started this thread :) . I managed to flox the doubler in front of the 5" mark instead of behind. Luckily I managed to correct this before I glassed the longeron...

 

However - the question 5.9" vs. 6.25" is open still. I got an answer on the Cozy-list where I was adviced to move the doubler to position 5.5" instead of 5.0". When I measured on the plans this makes sense. It gives more material to attach the bolt later on.

 

Posted Image

 

Looks like the FAQ should be updated a bit. The text in chapter 5 should be moved to chapter 6, and maybe it should be adviced in chapter 5 to move the doubler from 5.0" to 5.5".

Erlend Moen
Norway
Cozy MK IV #1556 - Chapter 16
http://cozy.ljosnes.no

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Be sure you understand this change completely before you continue. I tried to follow the 6.25" suggestion and wound up with a 1/2" gap between the canard trailing edge and the face of F28. I had to make my tabs 3/4" thick.

 

Measure everything, as you appear to be doing, and be sure you understand what the results will be. :)

 

I have edited this damned thing 3 times and cannot get F22 to read F28, as it should...sorry about that!

 

Well, naturally it took the change that time...LOL!

Phil Kriley

Cozy #1460

Chapter 13 - nose

Right wing done - working on right winglet.

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Be sure you understand this change completely before you continue. I tried to follow the 6.25" suggestion and wound up with a 1/2" gap between the canard trailing edge and the face of F28. I had to make my tabs 3/4" thick.

It seems like I can just postpone F28 until chapter 12. I've read through the plans and can't see any reason to add F28 at all until I am going to mount the canard. Then I will be able to get the correct position.

Erlend Moen
Norway
Cozy MK IV #1556 - Chapter 16
http://cozy.ljosnes.no

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I wrote that FAQ. If you take the canard hotwire template from the M drawings and lay it over the canard outline of the M12 (?) drawing, you'll find the canard hotwire template to be 0.35" longer than the canard outline.

 

5.9 + 0.35 = 6.25, give or take a tenth.

I see. That explains why some has enough room and others don't.

But shouldn't the paragraph be moved from chapter 5 to chapter 6 in the FAQ?

 

Would it be a stupid thing to postpone F28 until chapter 12? I will probably buy cores from Eureka, so I can't tell how these will fit.

 

Thanks for clarifying this!

Erlend Moen
Norway
Cozy MK IV #1556 - Chapter 16
http://cozy.ljosnes.no

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