Lightspeed Ignition Install

[daveb]

Installing a single Lightspeed Plasma III ignition next week in a Long-EZ. While the instructions are reasonably clear, pictures would be a great help for the details along with any gotchyas you might like to mention.

 

Thank-you

[Lynn Erickson]

Installing a single Lightspeed Plasma III ignition next week in a Long-EZ. While the instructions are reasonably clear, pictures would be a great help for the details along with any gotchyas you might like to mention.

 

Thank-you

it is straight forward just follow his instructions to the letter. every one I know that did something a better way then he tells you has been bittin in the butt. hopefully you have the crank sensor model. I had the hall effect modules and had many many problems. can't recommend it at all. after many problems in 300 hours I switched to the crank sensor and not one problem in 150 hours. I figure, why put an after market part inside your engine if you don't have to. If it fails it will ruin your engine and the whole day. If you are using the hall effect module check it every 50 hours as he says to. keep an eye on those bearings as they have been known to come loose in the housing. they need to be checked while it is hot. when cold they will feel good but when hot they can be loose.

Good luck on the install

[daveb]

Got the crank sensor and its an 0-235 L2C. The mags had to come out for a check during my annual, one was nearly dead. A CDI was on the list so nows the time. It looks like I'm the installer with 'professional supervision' which has turned out to be a surprise. The LAME overlooking has never seen one of these systems.

 

So, thinking the electronics box goes behind the passenger headrest space as I've seen in one LE installation pic - less heat and vibration. Should this be mounted on rubber spacers or OK flush? How I route the wires through, little gromets or whatever, mounting parts on the engine, holding all the cables is what I'm hoping to see in a few photos. See, no clue...

[Strider]

I'd take photos of my install, but it wouldn't do you any good. The VariEze and Long-EZ are too different. Klaus says in his manual to mount the processor box on the cool side of the firewall, and even then be sure there is an air space between the box and the surface it's mounted against. This seems to mean, Yes--put it on rubber mounts.

 

My install is on the hot side of the firewall, and I must use the Hall Effect sensor on the accessory case. There isn't any room to mount the box behind the passenger's head in a VariEze. Also, I have no oil filter, no oil cooler, no fuel pumps, no flywheel and no starter. The LSE ignitions need a flywheel to use the crank sensor.

 

If you don't get pictures from someone, refer to the manual. Route the high voltage BNC wires (400 volts) near the high voltage plug wires if you have to. Route the low voltage sensor wires and ignition power wires separately from the high voltage wires.

[Kent Ashton]

Do you have to tap the cases to mount the crank sensor? If so, there is a progressive three-tap set from machine tool suppliers you can buy that will help out there. It taps the holes a bit at a time. Here's a picture of how my coils are mounted (on the cold side of the baffles). Use some diaelectric grease on the coil connections. I have had one fail from corrosion at the output connector

[Lynn Erickson]

Do you have to tap the cases to mount the crank sensor? If so, there is a progressive three-tap set from machine tool suppliers you can buy that will help out there. It taps the holes a bit at a time. Here's a picture of how my coils are mounted (on the cold side of the baffles). Use some diaelectric grease on the coil connections. I have had one fail from corrosion at the output connector

on some yes, the lightspeed bracket comes with centering tabs on the bracket that touch the crank shaft. after the holes are drilled the tabs are broken off and the bracket is bolted on. very easy to do. the cast aluminum case is very soft and easy to drill and tap.

[daveb]

Thanks for the input. Turns out its being installed mostly for me. Three days work so far. Then I get asked things I don’t know.

 

The instructions call for a 5 amp resetable breaker. Should this be positioned so it can be reset in flight? I guess the obvious answer is yes, I’m asking as I have a bit of a real estate problem. Do they pop on occasions?

 

Given I’ll have one unused mag switch, is it usual practice to connect this as the Plasma ON-OFF while by passing the Master? (I have no key start, just the mag switches and Master)

 

Many thanks

[Lynn Erickson]

Thanks for the input. Turns out its being installed mostly for me. Three days work so far. Then I get asked things I don’t know.

 

The instructions call for a 5 amp resetable breaker. Should this be positioned so it can be reset in flight? I guess the obvious answer is yes, I’m asking as I have a bit of a real estate problem. Do they pop on occasions?

 

Given I’ll have one unused mag switch, is it usual practice to connect this as the Plasma ON-OFF while by passing the Master? (I have no key start, just the mag switches and Master)

 

Many thanks

I would connected directly to the battery. use at least 16 gauge wire put a fuse on the positive wire at the battery to protect the wire , 10 amp. run the wire to a resetable 5 amp breaker that you can reach in flight, best if it is near the mag switch the empty mag switch. they do make breaker/ switches in one unit. run a wire from the breaker to the mag switch, it will need to be turned over so it is in the closed position when the switch is in the up position, or on position. Run a wire to the ignition box. run a 16 gauge ground wire direct from the battery to the ignition box. the reason for the big 16 gauge wire is you want the fuse to be bigger then the 5 amp in the cockpit and to blow before the wire burns. the 16 gauge connections and wire are strong enough to take any abuse or vibration without breaking. the ignition will run on 22 gauge but that is way to easy to break.

[daveb]

Well its in. First flight today. Thanks for the advice received in this thread. All of it was used.

 

Anyone who could do this install easily, the first time, has my respect. I got to do a fair bit myself while paying others to redo there work until I was happy! Now its done, it really would be fairly straight forward to do again.

 

Just a one hour test flight so far. I had an extra 50 revs on takeoff and was able to achieve nearly an extra 100 when firewalled. That’s interesting as I was expecting mainly a smoother engine and better fuel consumption but not really thinking there would be much change flat out.

 

The engine didn’t seem smoother at all, fuel consumption was 22 litres for 64 minutes including taxi time, it was 26 to 28 litres for a similar flight before the ignition change. I need to do a few long runs to really know whats happening.

 

A funny thing, going out the canard was vibrating in a new way. I’d also replaced the nose gear NG6 with NG6A, which was quite a job, and I think all the play in the old bushes must have dampened the taxiway wobbles. She was fine once the revs were up and normal in the air. So now I’m thinking maybe my prop could be balanced better too…..?

[Cozy1200]

Dave,

 

Good to hear your bird is back in the air.

[daveb]

Just an update with a 'gotchya'.

 

Did another run on Saturday, fast cruise and 26lts/hr over 150 minutes including taxi so almost pre new ignition numbers. No faster really in the cruise either.

 

The Lightspeed has some nice yellow tygon tube that is for taking MP to the plasma box. In a normal world you'd look at a bit of soft pipe and a hot engine and go for something heat resistant instead. The directions for the ignition say take a line off the engine and that most have a port near the carby which isn't a smoking hot area.

 

My engine didn't have such a port, the installer sacrificed one of my four primer ports and used that. Turns out they get hot, but with 'one way thinking', if its supplied for MP it must be OK, right? ..and thats where it went.

 

Had the cowls off today to try and get the idle better and found the melted hose pictured below. We replaced it with something robust, got the carby sorted out and went flying.

 

Looks like an extra 4 knots IAS at 2,650, still +50rpm static and slightly smoother running. Looking forward to another trip next week... I sure hope its also a little smoother than the last ones.