Glassing the insides of the sides

[Jon Matcho]

I expect to glass the inside of the sides this weekend...

Cool. Here's what I remember from that:

• A helper was most appreciated (I had one), but this could be done without.
• Consider doing one side at a time to make it more manageable. The reasons for doing both are to save cloth and time. The downside of doing both is that there's a LOT to do -- glass cutting, laying, epoxy mixing, pouring, and stippling. Still, no harm done doing both at once -- I think I'd still do it that way if I were to do it again, just reserve several hours.
• Make sure you have nice rounded radiuses on the yellow foam -- don't hold back.
• I didn't dish out the circle for the control stick as I intend to bring my strake openings all the way up to that area.
• I didn't dish out the area for the fuel gauges, as I intend to do that after I have the outside glassed as well, and just before I do the strakes.
• Put some peel ply in the tight corner/radius in the aft-upper area of the edge-foam, with a paper towel, and weighed down slightly to ensure a close fit in that area.

You'll do fine -- don't get hung up with these "tips".

[Phil Kriley]

Thanks Jon! I've been wondering about the fuel guage thing - I plan on getting Vance Atkinson's fuel guages and the plans say that if you are doing that, make a flat area per F-F...but it looks the same as if you were going to use the plans see-through windows...? And I agree with the rest of your suggestions - I too am doing the "Cozy-Girrrl strakes" mod - if I can figure out how...

[Jon Matcho]

I've been wondering about the fuel guage thing - I plan on getting Vance Atkinson's fuel guages and the plans say that if you are doing that, make a flat area per F-F...but it looks the same as if you were going to use the plans see-through windows...?

I spoke w/a few builders and flyers about this, and came to the conclusion that for new construction you don't need to mess with the clear tape business. The plans are from before Vance's fuel sight gauges, and I have no worries that I'm missing anything here. I plan on glassing the outside, and then mounting the gauge flat to that area from the inside, after cutting the inside cured glass, and taping the gauges in neatly w/BID and peel ply. Vance told me for new construction he'd install the gauges just before installing the strakes so that you know exactly where "empty" is.

 

And I agree with the rest of your suggestions - I too am doing the "Cozy-Girrrl strakes" mod - if I can figure out how...

I like the look of the Stagger-EZ strakes, but in the last 2 issues of the Central States newsletter there are pics of other's strake mods. One is a bit different than any others I've seen, and the article mentioned that this was first done in the 70s or 80s as I recall. Vance actually happens to be one of the people who just completed modifying his strakes into what he might call "Long-EZ strakes" (actually, the CSA newsletter referred to them as something like "extended strakes").

 

I'll take lots of pics when I get to the point of installing the gauges (which I happened to win at the 2005 Rough River fly-in -- thank you Vance)!

[Phil Kriley]

The plans are from before Vance's fuel sight gauges, and I have no worries that I'm missing anything here.

Actually, my plans are POST Vance's fuel guage development, because they specifically have a footnote saying that if you are installing his guages to make a flat area as noted in figure (7? don't have it with me...) at location F-F.

 

That's why I was scratchin' ma haid... But I understand what you are saying - makes sense - and I will not be cutting down the sight guage area nor the side-stick relief area. I guess I'm about ready to glass! All day tomorrow set aside, and two helpers lined up!

 

Thanks for your help!

[Jon Matcho]

Actually, my plans are POST Vance's fuel guage development, because they specifically have a footnote saying that if you are installing his guages to make a flat area as noted in figure (7? don't have it with me...) at location F-F.

I meant that the main instructions can probably be traced to the Long-EZ plans, and that the footnote was just thrown in there by Nat without too much thought for new builders. Basically, I think the packing tape part is completely unnecessary w/Vance's gauges.

 

I guess I'm about ready to glass! All day tomorrow set aside, and two helpers lined up!

Wow, two helpers! You'll be fine doing both sides at once. The hardest part is dealing with all that glass. If you pre-cut the glass, and roll it up for use in a sequence you'll have an easy time of it.

 

Thanks for your help!

Don't mention it, and keep in mind that the only difference between your project and mine is half a chapter.

[Wayne Hicks]

A few more things:

 

(1) Round off the inside bottom corner of the longerons. Else, you'll have a hard time getting the glass to bend around that sharp edge.

 

(2) Wet out and stipple down the depressions first. The two that stick out most in my mind are the depressions for the sticks and the fuel sight glasses. Sounds like it's not going to be a problem for you since you're going with the extended strakes and will wait to install the sight glasses for later.

 

(3) I cut the glass between the two longerons. Yes, I did originally span both sides with the one piece of glass (per plans). But what I found was each time I tried to straighten or stipple the glass on the port side, the glass would get pulled on the starboard side (and visa versa). So I just cut the glass across the 0.75 inch gap.

 

(4) I would still make the depressions for the control sticks just in case you change your mind later about installing the extended strakes. You can always cut out the depressions later if you really go with extended strakes.

 

(5) Yes, in my opinion it would be easier to install the sight glasses once you get to Chapter 21 Strakes. I still haven't installed my sight glasses. I didn't want to scratch them up.

[Jon Matcho]

(1) Round off the inside bottom corner of the longerons. Else, you'll have a hard time getting the glass to bend around that sharp edge.

I finally had an excuse to use my grandfather's router for this. Revisit Chapter 3 to find out the minimum radius you need, and don't be afraid to add a little extra. 1/2" radius?

 

So I just cut the glass across the 0.75 inch gap.

That also reminds me -- the gap can be any size as long as the longerons are parallel. Regardless, straightness of the longerons along this gap is what's most important!